CalActive.com Activities Blog

Went to the Mayan Riviera recently in search of paradise. Cancun wasn’t the destination. Nor was Playa Del Carmen. I was going further south to Tulum, home of eco-chic resorts, and an oceanfront Mayan ruin. Sounded good to me. Flew into Cancun with my daughter, who was on Spring break from Paris. Had never been to Cancun, but kinda knew what to expect; ginormous resorts side by side, all-inclusive, ensuring the traveler the most inauthentic Mexican holiday imaginable. But more on that later.

We got the car and drove south through Playa del Carmen, rumored to have one time been cool. Gooch little beachside Italian clubs and restaurants (’course if I want to see Italians I’ll go to Italy). I’m sorry to report it is Cancun’s little brother Shit Howdy! Slightly more chill, but still one big tourist trap. The de riguer pedestrian walkway is now flooded with inauthentic jewelry, $120 bikinis, sunglass hut after sunglass hut, and the requisite Senor Frogs - and Starbucks. Everything you need for a drunken Spring Break.

So Tulum it was, one long line of eco-chic resorts nestled in the jungle, replete with charming casitas on the beach, open air restaurants, and the requisite hip “Mayan” spas. Much more authentic. No AC. No swimming pools. Just the shimmering Caribbean and her silky sand. And the almighty dollar! Who would of thought that eco-chic was really a way of saying “triple the price of the real Mexico.” Sure, the resorts were spotless with exemplary maid service. Paths were cleared, windows rid of sea salt each and everyday, beds made. But still they were primitive casitas with palapa roofs. The charm was in the rustic appointments, the sea breeze instead of air conditioning. But $325 a night at the Cabanas Capal? For studio Cabanas on a windswept rock ledge where there was no beach?

Cabanas Copal Muy Caro

And the bargain price of $95 for their “garden” cabana? Some garden. A tiny dark room with no windows, surrounded by a thicket of jungle where the air doesn’t circulate? Sure, it would be charming and romantic to go without electricity if there was a breeze. But this was March, the wind was howling non-stop just 20 yards away, but the “charming” jungle had not been thinned and I sweltered like a Vietnam POW. I might even vote for McCain now.

No Electricity

At least get us an overnight fan! And the spas? I thought massages in Mexico were in the $20-30/hr range. But apparently nobody told these folks. Lowest price at any spa I saw was $70/hr. Eco-chic indeed.

Despite the gauging, the coast is lovely, the water an amazing turquoise, and the setting incomparable. When we were there the wind was pretty much constant and the water extremely choppy. We’re told this is common. It makes for great kite surfing, but ocean swimming and snorkeling is another story. And of course there are no waves for surfing of body boarding. I have to say one of the most interesting parts of the trip were the cenotes, the system of underground rivers that runs throughout the peninsula. Cenotes are the occasional holes in the ground where these freshwater oasis are found. The water is clear and drinkable, and you can snorkel through underground caves filled with stalacalites. Plus the sun comes underneath and through these caves casting a brilliant cobalt patina on the water. Capri’s Blue Grottos have nothing on this.

The way cool Cenotes

At the end of the trip I crossed to the other (Pacific) Coast of Mexico, where I got back in touch with my inner primitive Mexican soul. Flew to the southern Pacific coastal resort of Huatulco. La Bahias del Hautulco you say? Never heard of it? You will. This is a big time Mexican resort that was built in the 80’s, failed, and is now experiencing a resurgence. But I didn’t come to go there. I went north (or West) to the fishing village of Puerto Angel. Okay, the Pacific side may not have the turquoise water and the lush tropical jungle, but it’s dry and bug free and untouched and real and everything I was looking for. Zipolite is ther hippy beach that time forgot: same palapas on the beach as Tulum - OK maybe a little more rundown with less vigorous trash collection. But rooms for $20, and hammocks for five. A good meal with cervesa for $5. And that beloved massage on the beach for $20. Plus waves - big ones, that require some restraint. Still, El Pacifico is the place for me.

La Boquilla

Man it’s shaping up to be an epic ski season in California! It’s only February and Mammoth already has a 100″ base, with more dumping! This is what I love about California. In a mere 5 hours you can drive from sunny SoCal to the Sierras where there’s some of the highest snowfall accumulation in these here United States. Whoa! You might even start with a surf or a kayak before hitting the slopes. How cool. And what else do I love about Mammoth? Let me recite the many things. First, the drive. While tedious, it’s also mind expanding as you travel the eastern Sierras through the Owens Valley. It’s vast and open and beautiful, with the mighty Sierras on one side, and the impressive White Mountains on the other. You’ll pass the true cowboy towns of Olancha (gateway to Death Valley), Lone Pine (gateway to Mt. Whitney), Independence (home to the ignominious Manzanar Japanese internment camp from WWII), Big Pine (gateway to the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest, home to the oldest living things on Planet Earth - a 4,000 year-old tree??? Come on), Bishop (home to crazy wilderness outback mountaineers), and finally Mammoth, home of the the LA powder cowboys. How does Mammoth stack up against world class mountains like Vail, Aspen, Park City, Jackson Hole and Whistler? Well, it may not have the light, fluffy powder of Utah, or the swanky private jets of Aspen, or the sheer size of Vail, or the steeps of Jackson, but it has more annual snowfall than any of them, more sunny California days, more ski days (usually staying open through June and sometimes July), less crowds (see 5 hour drive), a gracious layout that allows you to traverse the mountain without skiing the same run twice, modest pricing, cheap accommodations, lots of high speed lifts, and, oh yes, thermal hot springs that are free (if you know where to look). They can be the highlight of your holiday. Imagine skiing all day, getting that major thigh burn, then driving 20 minutes into the Owens Valley where you will discover a perfect tub in the wilderness with 110 degree mineral water for soaking those tires bones. You’ll have a 360 degree view of the Sierras and Whites just as the sun drops behind them. Ahhh. Life is good!

The transfixion of animation on the plastic is a worldwide phenomenon, and its consistent manifestation in the form of a dimunitive person brings up several social and psychological issues that must be adressed. The Plastic Gnome, often of the garden variety, maintains a ubiquitous presence across lawns and wholesaler shelves throughout civilization. These small plastic ‘persons’ (members/contributors of moral communities) coldly monitor our every moves; But why? Why do we subject our selves to the presence of these distorted human reflections? How, in fact, do they function?

The answer is complex and by no means conclusive. The human condition is ripe with frontiers where the imagined bleeds into the physical, to the point where it stradles two worlds at the same time. Gnomes exist at the point where the imagined is so powerful that it demands our desire for tangibility. Gnomes reflect our need to build social human communities, with controls. They look like us, yet their dimunitive stature prevents ambiguity within our sense of what constitutes the human, and does not pose a physical challenge to existing human relationships. Their resemblence to the elderly father figure does not threaten our sexuality(reproduction) and represents selfless guiding and nurturing for the future. It is no accident that they watch over gardens and lawns, protecting and promoting safety and sustenence. There accessability allows everyone to create their own secure yet disposable world.

Recently, the Gnome phenomenon has taken a new and dramatic step. Their is now sufficient evidence to suggest that human gratitude for the imagined is being displaced on the Gnome. Owners of gnomes are including their plastic figuriens in family and social activities. Inclusion of the imagined into activities of the real shows an evolution for our desire to build lasting human relationships, even when they definitively cannot exist outside of dillusion. Gnomes are travelling, learning new skills, even participating in exciting activities as exotic as surfing. The Human ‘G’nome Project will continue researching this untracked academia-stay blogged for further updates.

Today I was up at the crack, grinding some breakfast watching the rains pour in. Come ocho I headed over to the back bay for a mysto morning kayak. Tricked out in my grande blue backpacking pancho, I pushed off just as the bands of showers were pushing through. Only minutes into the paddle the wind switched and I was sailing towards jamboree with a stiff wind at my back. It was nice to be cruising at such a brisk pace, doing very little work and enjoying the scenery. However, what goes up must come down, and what leaves the beach must come back eventually, and I knew it wasn’t going to be pretty fighting the wind for a mile or two. My sit on top is great on calm days, but tracking upwind is a bitch. Letting the work ahead of me slide, I leaned back cozy in the seat and checked out the water fowl. Lots of Egrets and Tall Herons. After it rains, all the trash gets washed out of storm drains and ends up in the bay before making its way to the ocean. It’s a sickening feeling to be in a tranquil place observing majestic creatures stepping over styrofoam cups and plastic bags. Yeah, it’s only bad like this on the first big rain of the year, but that’s still unacceptable. Let’s keep the bay clean. dig.

So I flipped the yak around and decided to start heading back. Luckily, there was a waterway between the reeds and the cliffs that provided a slight wind break from the chop of the main channel. Not only was it mellow paddling against the cliffs, but I was able to spot a little cave in the rocks that I never noticed before. I definetly want to get in there, but I’m not sure I could scale down the cliff and get in. Definetly a challenge to come back to. I finally fought my way back to shore and was relieved to get on my feet again. Another day on the bay.

another great day for surfing in laguna

Testing the posts one more time. Surfing and Kayaking Keywords.

This is the first post on our blog. It is still under construction, but we should be live soon.